"This captivating novel by an author who is a surfer is about surfing, adolescence, friendship, and loyalty. The main character, Juan, is an intense young man making his way toward adulthood amidst all the struggles, angst, and joy of life. Surf lovers will take great delight in Juan's quest... read more
It's daunting to find out that the whole day's big-wave surfing was a warm-up, a passing of time, a pause for the real thing. And Jamie was in position to ride the real thing. Jamie was committed. I was scared, stuck halfway in, halfway out, in never-never land. Not far enough to make it over... read more (warning: may contain spoilers)
It's daunting to find out that the whole day's big-wave surfing was a warm-up, a passing of time, a pause for the real thing. And Jamie was in position to ride the real thing. Jamie was committed. I was scared, stuck halfway in, halfway out, in never-never land. Not far enough to make it over the waves, and not far enough in to be safe when they broke. Jamie could paddle right out of the bay, if he chose, and be entirely safe. Amber should be on beach by now. I was screwed.
But now I was committed. I was paddling in for all I was worth. Chicken of the Sea. But there wasn't a choice. I reasoned later. And there wasn't. The result of my hesitation early on. I was, for sure, a surf coward.
The first wave's whitewater roared up on me like an exploding locomotive, ripping my board from me as easily as you life a newborn. I didn't know which way was up or down; I was in a swirling mass of turbulence, and I couldn't breathe and I couldn't swim....
“Avoiding Main, Amber drove the backstreets of town. When we were just past the trailer park, we got on the Coast Highway, heading south, my mom's 4Runner our raft, the Pacific our Mississippi.”
“But I could feel Amber nestled into me, could feel her soft curves and her breath hot on my neck, and I was prepared to suffer the consequences for this moment.”
“A helpless, desolate feeling began to sink in as I felt just how far removed we were from civilization, from things known and loved, things familar.”
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