"This captivating novel by an author who is a surfer is about surfing, adolescence, friendship, and loyalty. The main character, Juan, is an intense young man making his way toward adulthood amidst all the struggles, angst, and joy of life. Surf lovers will take great delight in Juan's quest... read more
It's daunting to find out that the whole day's big-wave surfing was a warm-up, a passing of time, a pause for the real thing. And Jamie was in position to ride the real thing. Jamie was committed. I was scared, stuck halfway in, halfway out, in never-never land. Not far enough to make it over... read more (warning: may contain spoilers)
“Avoiding Main, Amber drove the backstreets of town. When we were just past the trailer park, we got on the Coast Highway, heading south, my mom's 4Runner our raft, the Pacific our Mississippi.”
“But I could feel Amber nestled into me, could feel her soft curves and her breath hot on my neck, and I was prepared to suffer the consequences for this moment.”
“A helpless, desolate feeling began to sink in as I felt just how far removed we were from civilization, from things known and loved, things familar.”
Chapters 1 - 18
We’re hiding the errata, movie connections, books that influenced this book, books influenced by this book, books that cite this book and books cited by this book sections. If you would like to add content to them, you must first make them visible.