An indispensable guide to selecting, tasting, and serving cheese-with 1,200 varieties classed by family and every entry rich in information. They come from around the world and range from Italian asiago to Spanish idiazabal (a ewe's milk cheese), from Dutch Gouda to the increasingly rare French Grataron d'Arèches-a soft-pressed, washed-rind, goat's milk cheese that's made by only three producers. There are veined British stiltons, double and triple cream Brillat-Savarins, and smoky provolones. Plus, Roland Barthélmy, one of the most prestigious cheese specialists in France, reveals his 100 favorites.