“The story of the 1996 Everest disaster is well known and the subject of several books and films. Of all the accounts, this is the best written as Krakauer has that rare combination of skills both as a mountaineer and a writer. Harrowing experiences and desparate choices at very high altitude make for compulsive reading.
I can't help thinking Krakauer never quite relinquished his role as official journalist on the expedition. He seemed to distance himself from the other climbers on his team as well as from other expeditions and his low opinion of some of the others, notably the socialite climbers who bought into the expedition, is clear.
I admire his personal achievement (he was the firstof his party to summit that day) and he suffered undoubtedly suffered from exhaustion but he was not a team player. He was at pains to remind the reader that Everest is an individual thing and no one climber would be roped to another. However he seemed to see this rule as suiting his status as a loner. I would love him to have shown more compassion for Beck (left to die not once but twice) and Yasuko but he didn't. At least he was honest in the book about his decisions.
Krakauer repeats the widely held view that above 8,000 meters there is little room for sentiment but I can't help thinking some of his actions and those of fellow climbers did not secure the best possible outcome. Perhaps this reflects the selfishness of human nature.
Despite my reservations the book is an essential read.”
Paul B wrote this review Sunday, November 1 2009.
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