Mother nature brings out the best and worst in human nature. Although Jon Krakauer does a fine job of putting things in perspective, this gripping account of the Everest climb is best appreciated by those who have had some exposure to high altitude climbing or mountaineering. An honest account of what transpired that season. A story where every person's action is justifiable from their perspective, yet little mistakes added up with disastrous consequences - like any man-made disaster story in the real world. Don't judge, just absorb. One of the few books in my life that made me get a lump in the throat and shed a tear...

There is no doubt that this is a gripping, engrossing tale of the 1996 tragedy on Mt. Everest. This is the book that started my odyssey as an "armchair" Himalayan adventurer. I've read most of the books available on mountaineering and climing 8,000 meter mountains. However, the more I've read, the more I've wondered about the conclusions that Krakauer drew in his book. I just finished "The Climb" by Anatoli Boukreev, and while it tells much of the same story, it provides it from the guide's perspective. It was easy for Krakauer to vilify Boukreev, since he (Krakauer) was a mountaineering neophyte and a paying client on the mountain. But reading Boukreev's book provides balance to the story and answers a lot of the questions left unanswered by "Into Thin Air."

I just finished reading this book for the second time (with the new afterword). I think this version is the one to read over earlier printed ones. Jon in my opinion masterfully tells the story of what happened on that expedition. You will read some reviews of this book calling Jon a liar and that Anatoli Boukreev's book "The Climb" is a more accurate account. I say this, Jon wrote this book to describe the events of that tragic day, and in doing so it is clear that many people made many mistakes. He has nothing to gain nor lose in the arena of high altitude climbing by the telling of this story, though some of those he critiques do or did. Therefore it is much easier to believe the story as told by Krakauer over those told by individuals who told theirs for self preservation or promotion.

Several reviewers have panned this superbly written page-turner because they felt that "The Climb" presented the "true story," and that Karkauer was, therefore, just making stuff up to sell novels.

I couldn't disagree more. I think Krakauer told this story exactly as he remembered experiencing it. I also think "The Climb" told how the late A. Boukrev remembered it. What I found interesting was that reading both really highlights the differing viewpoints of the guides ("We point the way, but you must be able to handle yourself.") and the clients ("I paid $40,000 for you to handle it for me."). Many mountaineers feel Boukrev's book tells the "real story," but I think that's just because the views of professional mountaineers are much closer to those of the guides than to those of the wealthy western clients.

I see where they're coming from: just because you're rich, you can't buy the right to survive if you want to put yourself in danger. Others shouldn't have to die just because you used money to go somewhere you don't belong. But at the same time, I'd be enraged if I paid for an afternoon with a personal trainer only to learn that he'd run a marathon this morning and wasn't really up to training with me; instead he'd just rest and radio me with instructions.

So yes, Krakauer does seem to vilify Boukrev (and others). Perhaps this was merely for dramatic effect, but I think it's natural for survivors to vilify someone who they feel had the best chance to act differently, even if that person doesn't deserve the full blame. Boukrev summited without oxygen, and there is no doubt that the effort of doing it sapped energy that turned out to be vitally needed elsewhere. Krakauer made his mistakes too, as "The Climb" is quick to point out.

If you don't care "what really happened," well, this is the story by the professional writer; its writing is of higher quality than "The Climb". So if you're only going to read one, read this one. But reading both books is the best way to understand what happened in the death zone of Everest in May 1996.

Although familiar with the 1996 expedition to Everest, and having had this edition for some time, this is the first time I sat down with Karkauer's book. Prompted by the Discovery Channel series on climbing Everest I decided it was time to read the book.
Five hours later I finished - a marathon session of reading and wonder. The story is well-crafted and to the point, reading like excellent fiction, with the under-current knowledge that it is fact, the book pulls you along.
A fascinating story about a terribly tragic event - made more so by the possible clash of egos over tackling the mountain and not paying careful attention to time and clients.
Highly recommeded.