In January 2002 Rory Stewart walked across Afghanistan-surviving by his wits, his knowledge of Persian dialects and Muslim customs, and the kindness of strangers. By day he passed through mountains covered in nine feet of snow, hamlets burned and emptied by the Taliban, and communities... read more
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Preface xi
The New Civil Service 1
Tanks into Sticks 6
Whether on the Shores of Asia 10
Part One 15
Chicago and Paris 17
Huma 19
Fare Forward 23
These Boots 30
Part Two 35
Qasim 37
Impersonal Pronoun 4
A Tajik Village 48
The Emir of the West 50
Caravanserai, Whose Portals... 56
To a Blind Man's Eye 62
Genealogies 69
Lest He Returning Chide... 74
Crown Jewels 85
Bread and Water 90
The Fighting Man Shall 95
A Nothing Man 99
Part Three 103
Highland Buildings 105
The Missionary Dance 112
Mirrored Cat's-Eye Shades 117
Marrying a Muslim 120
War Dog 127
Commandant Haji (Moalem) Mohsin Khan of Kamenj 134
Cousins 141
Part Four 145
The Minaret of Jam 147
Traces in the Ground 157
Between Jam and Chaghcharan 161
Dawn Prayers 164
Little Lord 167
Frogs 172
The Windy Place 177
Part Five 183
Name Navigation 185
The Greeting of Strangers 192
Leaves on the Ceiling 197
Flames 200
Zia of Katlish 203
The Sacred Guest 208
The Cave of Zarin 212
Devotions 217
The Defiles of the Valley 220
Part Six 227
The Intermediate Stages of Death 229
Winged Footprints 231
Blair and the Koran 234
Salt Ground and Spikenard 239
Pale Circles in Walls 242
@afghangov.org 245
While the Note Lasts 250
Part Seven 255
Footprints on the Ceiling 257
I am the Zoom 260
Karaman 262
Khalili's Troops 266
And I Have Mine 270
The Scheme of Generation 276
Taliban 279
Toes 285
Marble 289
Epilogue 295
Acknowledgments 299
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