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In January 2002 Rory Stewart walked across Afghanistan-surviving by his wits, his knowledge of Persian dialects and Muslim customs, and the kindness of strangers. By day he passed through mountains covered in nine feet of snow, hamlets burned and emptied by the Taliban, and communities... read more

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Summary edit see section history

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Characters/People edit see section history

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Setting & Locations edit see section history

  • Afghanistan
  • Kabul: Capital city of Afghanistan. Also an eastern province of Afghanistan.
  • Herat: Western province of Afghanistan. Also the capital city of the province.
  • Ghor: Hill province of Central Afghanistan.
  • Bamiyan: Mountain province of Central Afghanistan.
  • Chaghcharan: Capital of Ghor Province.
  • Wardak: A province of central east Afghanistan.
  • Maidan Shahr: Capital of Wardak province.
  • Hari Rud: River running east-west across Afghanistan from the Jam River in Ghor Province to the plains of Herat.
  • Herat Sha'ede: Village in Herat Province some kilometers outside the capital.
  • Dideros: Village on the river Hari Rud, in Herat Province.
  • Obey: District of Herat Province. Also the name of the administrative town of the district.
  • Chist-e-Sharif: An ancient place in Herat on the border of Ghor Province. Site of the Ghorid domes.
  • Turquoise Mountain: Lost capital of the Ghorids, a medieval Islamic civilization.
  • Darai-E-Takht: An Aimaq village in Ghor Province.
  • Dahan-E-Razak: A tribal hill village in Ghor province.
  • Kamenj: District of Ghor Province.
  • Garmao: An Aimaq village in Ghor Province.
  • Minaret of Jam: Ancient 63 m. minaret located in Ghor at the confluence of the Hari and Jam rivers.
  • Chesme Sakini: An Aimaq village in Ghor Province
  • Barra Khana: An Aimaq village in Ghor Province
  • Daulatyar: An Aimaq village in Ghor Province.
  • Sar Jangal: A valley and a district in Ghor Province.
  • Kandahar: Southern province of Afghanistan
  • Sang-i-zard: An Hazara village in Ghor Province.
  • Katlish: An Hazara town in Ghor Province.
  • Yakawlang: District of Bamiyan Province; also the name of the administrative city.
  • Ghorak: An Hazara village
  • Shaidan: An Hazara village, razed by the Taliban.
  • Bamiyan: Site of the colossal Bamiyan Buddhas.
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Organizations edit see section history

  • Aimaq: An ethnic group of Afghanistan. Descendants of the ancient Ghorids. Adherents of Sunni Islam.
  • Hazara: An ethnic group of Afghanistan, populated between Ghor and Bamiyan. Descendants of Genghis Khan. Adherents of Shi'a Islam.
  • Pushtun: An ethnic group of Afghanistan. Adherents of Sunni Islam.
  • Tajik: An ethnic group of Afghanistan. Descendants of the ancient Persians. Generally adherents of Sunni Islam.
  • Taliban: A Sunni Islamic political group in Afghanistan. Adherents of Sunni Islam.
  • Northern Alliance: Military-political alliance of various Afghan groups, formed to engage the Taliban.
  • Chistiyah: A Sufi sect and religious order, founded in Chist. Noted for the mystical dancing of their dervishes.
  • Médecins San Frontières (MSF): International medical and humanitarian aid organization.

First Sentence edit see section history

I watched two men enter the lobby of the Hotel Mowafaq.

Table of Contents edit see section history

Preface xi
The New Civil Service 1
Tanks into Sticks 6
Whether on the Shores of Asia 10

Part One 15
Chicago and Paris 17
Huma 19
Fare Forward 23
These Boots 30

Part Two 35
Qasim 37
Impersonal Pronoun 4
A Tajik Village 48
The Emir of the West 50
Caravanserai, Whose Portals... 56
To a Blind Man's Eye 62
Genealogies 69
Lest He Returning Chide... 74
Crown Jewels 85
Bread and Water 90
The Fighting Man Shall 95
A Nothing Man 99

Part Three 103
Highland Buildings 105
The Missionary Dance 112
Mirrored Cat's-Eye Shades 117
Marrying a Muslim 120
War Dog 127
Commandant Haji (Moalem) Mohsin Khan of Kamenj 134
Cousins 141

Part Four 145
The Minaret of Jam 147
Traces in the Ground 157
Between Jam and Chaghcharan 161
Dawn Prayers 164
Little Lord 167
Frogs 172
The Windy Place 177

Part Five 183
Name Navigation 185
The Greeting of Strangers 192
Leaves on the Ceiling 197
Flames 200
Zia of Katlish 203
The Sacred Guest 208
The Cave of Zarin 212
Devotions 217
The Defiles of the Valley 220

Part Six 227
The Intermediate Stages of Death 229
Winged Footprints 231
Blair and the Koran 234
Salt Ground and Spikenard 239
Pale Circles in Walls 242
@afghangov.org 245
While the Note Lasts 250

Part Seven 255
Footprints on the Ceiling 257
I am the Zoom 260
Karaman 262
Khalili's Troops 266
And I Have Mine 270
The Scheme of Generation 276
Taliban 279
Toes 285
Marble 289

Epilogue 295
Acknowledgments 299

Glossary edit see section history

  • agha: (honorific): "Excellency" e.g. "His Excellency"
  • beg: Chief
  • bukhashi: Afghan polo, played on horseback with the head of a dead goat as the ball
  • caravanserai: A way station for merchants and other travellers on the Silk Road.
  • dervish: A Sufi Muslim ascetic.
  • emir: (Honorific): A high ranking ruler or official; a prince; a general
  • farsang: The distance that a man could travel on foot in a day
  • haji: (Honorific): One who has made the religious pilgrimage to Mecca.
  • hazrat: (Islamic honorific for a saint): "Great Presence"
  • moalem: (Honorific): Schoolteacher
  • mujahid, mujahidin (pl): Fighter, warrior
  • mullah: (Honorific): One who has studied Islamic theology and religious law. Usually a local Islamic cleric or mosque leader.
  • seyyed: (Honorific): A male descendant of the Prophet Muhammad.
  • Shi'a: Persian Islam, the second largest denomination of Islam.
  • Sufi: Mystical Islam, which focuses on the inner, spiritual relationship with God.
  • Sunni: Orthodox Islam; the largest branch of Islam.
Show all 16 glossary entries

Authors & Contributors edit see section history

  1. Rory Stewart (Author)

First Edition edit see section history

Original Language: English
Publisher: Harvest Original, Harcourt
Country: U.S.A.
Publication Date: 2006
ISBN: 0156031566
Page Count: 297

Classification edit see section history

  • Library of Congress: DS352 .S74
  • Dewey: 915.810447

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